1 THE BEST OF PARIS 1 The Most Unforgettable Paris Experiences 3 The Most Unforgettable Food & Drink Experiences 5 The Best Museums 7 The Best Family Experiences 9 The Best Free & Dirt Cheap Paris 11 The Best Historic Experiences 13 The Best Local Experiences 15 The Best Neighborhoods for Getting Lost 17 2 PARIS IN DEPTH 19 Paris Today 20 THE NEW PARISIANS 25 The Making of Paris 27 A DIVIDED CITY 30 DATELINE 44 When to Go 48 PARIS CALENDAR OF EVENTS 49 Responsible Tourism 54 3 SUGGESTED PARIS ITINERARIES 56 City Layout 57 Neighborhoods in Brief 58 Suggested Itineraries 67 Iconic Paris 67 Hemingway & 1920s Paris 71 Parisian Architecture Through the Ages 73 4 EXPLORING PARIS 76 Paris's Top 14 Sights & Attractions 77 The Right Bank 78 The Left Bank 121 TIME OUT AT THE TOWER 140 KIKI DE MONTPARNASSE 142 Beyond Central Paris 143 Especially for Kids 145 Outdoor Pursuits 147 Sights & Attractions by Theme 150 Walking Tour 1: Montmartre 153 Walking Tour 2: The Latin Quarter 159 Walking Tour 3: The Marais 165 5 STROLLING AROUND PARIS 152 6 WHERE TO EAT 175 Best Restaurant Bets 177 PRICE CATEGORIES 177 The Right Bank 178 The Left Bank 209 IN PURSUIT OF THE PERFECT PARISIAN PASTRY 226 Family-Friendly Restaurants 228 The Top Cafes 228 Restaurants by Cuisine 231 Practical Matters: The Restaurant Scene 234 7 SHOPPING 237 Les Halles, Louvre & Palais Royal (1er & 2e) 238 Le Marais, Ile St Louis & Ile de la Cite (3e & 4e) 239 Champs-Elysees & Western Paris (8e, 16e & 17e) 239 Opera & Grands Boulevards (9e) 240 Pigalle & Montmartre (18e) 240 Republique, Bastille & Eastern Paris (11e & 12e) 241 Belleville, Canal St-Martin & Northeast Paris (10e, 19e & 20e) 241 Latin Quarter (5e & 13e) 241 St-Germain-des-Pres & Luxembourg (6e) 241 Eiffel Tower & Nearby (7e) 242 Montparnasse & Southern Paris (14e & 15e) 242 Malls & Markets 242 Shopping A to Z 245 Practical Matters: The Shopping Scene 266 8 ENTERTAINMENT & NIGHTLIFE 269 The Performing Arts 270 The Bar Scene 275 The Club & Music Scene 280 The Gay & Lesbian Scene 286 Alternative Entertainment 288 Spectator Sports 288 Best Paris Hotel Bets 292 PRICE CATEGORIES 292 WHAT YOU'LL REALLY PAY 293 The Right Bank 293 FRANCE'S PALACE HOTELS 296 The Left Bank 319 Near the Airports 336 Practical Matters: The Hotel Scene 337 9 WHERE TO STAY 291 10 SIDE TRIPS FROM PARIS 340 Versailles 341 Chartres 351 Giverny 356 Auvers-Sur-Oise 359 Disneyland Paris 362 WALT DISNEY STUDIOS 366 Fontainebleau 368 Vaux-Le-Vicomte 372 11 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO PARIS 377 Getting There 378 Special-Interest Trips & Tours 381 Getting Around 384 FAST FACTS 389 12 USEFUL TERMS & PHRASES 399 French-Language Terms 399 Basic Menu Terms 408 Index 412